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I’ve been using this the last year, and it’s the DIY version. It was working last year, and now that summer has started up and the flooding has stopped here in Texas, I decided to give it a whirl and see what I need to fix with the pvc pipes around the property, and the device will not connect to the network, nor can I use the buttons to do manual testing.
Is there a process to troubleshooting the buttons/rj45 to get them working again? maybe something loose? I honestly don’t want to reheat the solder joints and cause heat damage for working on solder points too much.
I have all tools available for testing basic electronics, but need some pointers on where to check. The firmware is stock, and it doesn’t mention during power up what version of the firmware is installed.
no link light from my N2048P dell switch, which is working just fine for my desktop. Humidity has been extremely high with the flooding around Texas, but this device was 6 feet up on a wall in my covered patio, no way for water to get in, and it only had some dust on it. No funny smells from the PCB during power up (in case there was a short, or burned fuse).
http://i.imgur.com/dzSIEnX.jpg
Seems like I can’t flash anything either, seems the whole board’s chipsets are broked. I tried flashing 2.1.5 firmware, left it for over an hour, and since I had flashed a few arduino devices in the past, it never took that long, so I restarted the device. Still no go, still at the connecting.
I’ve reseated both chipsets, the lcd display and even removed the RTC battery in case it was holding bad settings in memory. Nothing.
Jun 11 22:57:24 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7821.575528] usb 3-4: new low-speed USB device number 31 using xhci_hcd
Jun 11 22:57:24 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7821.575914] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7821.779958] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7821.983624] usb 3-4: device not accepting address 31, error -71
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.095674] usb 3-4: new low-speed USB device number 32 using xhci_hcd
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.096063] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.300096] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.503767] usb 3-4: device not accepting address 32, error -71
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.615817] usb 3-4: new low-speed USB device number 33 using xhci_hcd
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.616207] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.820242] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.023909] usb 3-4: device not accepting address 33, error -71
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.135951] usb 3-4: new low-speed USB device number 34 using xhci_hcd
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.136340] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.340377] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.544052] usb 3-4: device not accepting address 34, error -71
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.544077] hub 3-0:1.0: unable to enumerate USB device on port 4Does OS sell the chips themselves? I’m betting that the heat outside fried this, and caused something wrong with the device. Maybe a way to test if the chipsets are working properly? i see those test ports with the RX/TX and other stuff above the LCD display. Any tutorials on such an activity?
I was able to flash the latest 2.1.5 firmware on my OS_2.1
https://opensprinkler.com/forums/topic/announcing-opensprinkler-unified-firmware-2-1-4/
my ethernet controller seems to have gone bad. Any suggestions on how to go about troubleshooting/replacing it?
I’m doing pretty well considering I have no real idea on how to go about it. Reading the forums has helped a LOT.
I was unable to flash using the osFWUpdater, I used the avrdude command mentioned in the above URL. That was MUCH faster than the hours I left the osFWUpdater running today.
https://opensprinkler.com/forums/topic/cannot-communicate-with-board-v2-1u/
I just found this thread, and it’s the same exact issue I’m having.
Here is the voltage on my pins, as directed to nsato by Ray in the referenced link:
1:2.6v
2:18.7mv
3:1.58v
4:3.27v
5:3.27v
6:30.1mv
7:3.1v
8:0.1v
9:3.04v
10:3.28v
11:20mv
12:1.17v
13:1.17
14:1.2115:3.27v
16:3.25v
17:3.25v
18:20.8mv
19:3.27v
20:3.27v
21:19.9mv
22:21.1mv
23:1.34v
24:1.18v
25:3.27v
26:20.1mv
27:19.1mv
28:3.27I assume my voltage meter is reading the mV, even though the comparison with the referenced URL shows 0v. I assume that’s what I should put there, but I rather give what i see, than what I feel.
From your pictures it looks like the LEDs on the Ethernet jack are not lighting up, not even the green LED. This might be caused by a defective ENC28J60 Ethernet controller, or the 25MHz crystal. Both are pretty easy to source on Digikey or Mouser for just a few bucks.
But before you proceed, the ‘buttons’ not working might be related to the Ethernet jack. Can you be more specific about the ‘buttons not working’? Which buttons, and why did you think they are not working? Note that if you have the latest firmware 2.1.5, the button functions have changed. There is no longer a ‘test’ mode at start-up, instead, you can run a test program (using button B3) after the controller has powered up. For details, please refer to the user manual.
After troubleshooting, I wasn’t able to get the buttons to output anything during the “connecting…” phase. Once it completed after several minutes, the buttons were working, I tried all the combinations, the ip address was 0.0.0.0:80, and all blank. Seems like I can’t use buttons until the device has completed initializing. I’ll look fr a new ENC28J60, I see it’s quite common as far as the chipset goes, but the form factor isn’t. Would you happen to have the name of the form factor we are using in the DIY kits? I’ll definitely go and a get new ethernet controller along with the crystal while I’m at it.
Regards,
AnthonyTook a while, it’s called a DIP configuration. (Just documenting this if it ever comes up and other users read this thread)
I believe I found the right parts from DigiKey;
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ENC28J60-I%2FSP/ENC28J60-I%2FSP-ND/1680061But not sure if this is the correct 25mhz crystal. I couldn’t find the schematics for the OS, so I’ve been browsing around digikey’s crystal filtering, and found this one;
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/9B-25.000MAAE-B/887-1499-ND/2690352Are these the right parts?
REplaced the 25mhz Crystal and the new enc28J60 and still no connection. I have no clue what’s left. Ideas?
No link on the OS
But link on the laptop
Still no link.Made sure to put in the enc28J60 with the top left as pin 1. Folded it in
I’ll have to water the most important parts of the lawn until OS3.0 is released sometime in the future. Since I’m getting a water storage container, I would love to track it without getting a BBB
Well, I can’t think of any obvious explanation for it. I think the problem is still that the ENC28J60 is not starting, but you said the LEDs on your laptop’s Ethernet jack lights up, and that’s strange. Do you mean your laptop or your router? How are you getting OS online?
Since I am also curious what’s causing the issue, you can submit a support ticket and send your DIY version back to us so we can take a look.
The screenshot I had was actually of the Laptop <-> Switch. And then the OS <-> Switch.
Then I thought, why not connect it to the laptop <-> OS; I just found an odd thing. When I connect the laptop <-> OS, it gets a link light.
If I connect the Switch <-> OS no link light. BUt all other devices work on the Switch.
It’s a newer Dell N2048P, and I think there may be a negotiation issue between the two devices. The N2048P is designed to be a 48 port POE Switch, but I only use 2 ports for POE, all other ports are in passive mode. There may be something on the switch preventing a connection, or possibly a setting in the ENC28J60 preventing a connection when it senses power coming through (which it shouldn’t shut off, just not accept the power. I’ll double check what’s up with the switch once my friend gets a chance to look into it. But for the meantime, I think I’ll use a dumb switch to link with the OS to get my network going again. Talk about strange….
I am not familiar with switches, but if you have a router, could you try it on the router? I am still puzzled by the LEDs — whether it’s switch or router, the LEDs should light up, because (if I understand it correctly) this is indicating that the Ethernet controller has started, so it shouldn’t matter if it’s switch or router. But I could be wrong.
I have finished working out the switch. The switch had to be hard set to “speed 10” at the port of where I connected the hardware.
I’m not sure why the port didn’t detect that the enc28j60 through auto negotiation, but from what I saw in this forum post about having to force the port to speed 10, tells me I haven’t been the only person using a managed high speed switch (this switch handles 10gb connections at copper level).
http://www.microchip.com/forums/m628780.aspx
An alternative much more likely problem is that the polarity of your TPIN+ and TPIN- wires are swapped somewhere between the ENC28J60 and the remote Cisco 300 switch PHY. Unlike 100BaseTX signaling, 10BaseT signaling is polarized, so you have to route one PHY’s TX+ signal to the remote PHY’s RX+ signal and similarly TX- with RX-. Not all engineers realize this, and given that Gigabit and 100Mbps Ethernet is predominant nowadays, I’ve seen several cases where various switch and router vendors have transposed their TX+ and TX- wires on some or all of their ports (in MDI, MDI-X, or both modes), possibly on purpose to improve trace routing. This non-compliant wiring works for all 100Mbps link partners and also works for 10BaseT devices which support a proprietary polarity detection and correction feature (not part of IEEE standard), but will not for the ENC28J60 and PIC18F97J60 family which don’t implement polarity detection and correction.
http://www.microchip.com/forums/m204840.aspx
Here is another one that kind of explains the exact same issues on my end.
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