September 7, 2015 at 6:41 pm #40146
I did a search and am now more confused than ever. I thought a simple 250V 2A replacement fuse would suffice but after looking through some threads here I’m not so sure. My OSPI V1.4 had a through hole mount tiny little (4mmX12MM) 250V 2A fuse which I haven’t been able to find locally at all. Some of the threads on here refer to “2a 125vac 63vdc smd fuse from digikey. Part number 507-1080-1-ND” but that looks nothing like the fuse I have. I also see reference to a “SMD 1812, 1A” but isn’t it either and is 1A instead of 2A.
Any help on what is the right fuse to use would be appreciated. If any of the ones above would work as well that info would be appreciated as well. I am thinking that different ones can be used but don’t want to fry my board guessing.
Thanks!September 8, 2015 at 1:10 pm #40156
I myself had the same problem. A std fuse will not harm. Mine is in place since two years. You have only to play a little with the solder and two pieces of solid wire. The fuse will be standing like torre di Pisa, otherwise the cabinet will not close properly. But from the electrical point of view there are no noticeable differences.September 8, 2015 at 11:32 pm #40164
The surface mount fuse F1 is a small, 1206 sized 2A fuse. Here is the digikey link:
If you don’t have tools to replace surface mount components, you can instead get this fuse with through-hole solder pins:
Note that if the fuse is blown, after replacing the fuse and before plugging in power you should make sure to check the resistance on two pins of the orange terminal block, and make sure the resistance is not too small (i.e. less than a few kilo-ohms). Because if the resistance is very small, some components (perhaps the TVS diode) may have been damaged, and if you plug in power the fuse might blow again.September 9, 2015 at 12:24 pm #40173
Thanks for responding, both of you.
I got a 250VAC 2A fuse and soldered two leads on then was able to solder it to the board. Everything functioned perfectly until the second to last zone and pretty sure the fuse popped again. I am thinking there is a short in the line going out to that zone somewhere. It was too late last night by the time I got everything back together and tested to go check the valve. I suspect a short because the system installed when I bought the house was a mess and only four of the eight wires going out to that sprinkler box were any good (the other four were open somewhere between the controller and the sprinkler box).
The one thing I liked about the sprinkler controller that the OSPI replaced is it had a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. I know enough about electronic components to be dangerous. Could I replace the fuse with a reset able breaker instead of a fuse? If so where could I get such a thing?
On edit, would something like http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/W28-XQ1A-2/PB183-ND/45058 work? I know I would have to run leads from the board out to the terminals but that is trivial compared to soldering a new fuse every time it blows due to a short in the wire for the zone.
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