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It appears from the board silk-screening that what the assembly instructions refer to as C1,C2, C3 are now C0,C1,C2. Am I correct.
Bill – AB6OR
You are right. The version you received is an updated version of 2.2u. I am in the middle of updating the instructions right at the moment. The differences between the updated version and the original version of 2.2u are:
1) C1, C2, C3 are now renamed C0, C1, C2
2) Inductor L1 and the Reset tactile button are now through-hole components to be soldered (previously they were surface mount components).No problem. your instructions are very good. One more question. For testing and initial programming, can I use my 0-26 VDC bench supply (set at 24 volts of course) as long as I put positive on pin 2? I have a 24 VAC power supply on my decrepit Toro sprinkler controller but I don’t want to disconnect the Toro until the final switchover. Also, and I hope that I don’t need it, my bench supply has an adjustable current limit.
Bill – AB6OR
Yes, you can use 26VDC bench power supply to test power supply. The positive pin should be connected to pin 2 as you said (the one that’s further away from the USB port). There is a diode on the circuit board for polarity protection so you don’t have to worry about connecting DC power the wrong way.
All is well. It is installed and running well with no drama on the open sprinkler side of the installation.
I ended up running CAT5 through the crawlspace, however. I could not get the TP-Link to work. It ran it in AP mode for a while and it worked great. In client mode it would work for a few minutes. I would then loose connectivity with both the sprinkler controller and the TP-Link. A few minutes after that all wired and wireless devices would loose connectivity. My raspberry pi weather station (http://162.239.136.92/weather) and media server needed to be unplugged to get them listening again. I tested this several times with and without static IP addresses. By mid afternoon I threw up my hands and ran the CAT5. Any ideas what was happening? My theory is that the TP-Link was offering DHCP renewals even though I had its DHCP turned off. A brief web search found others with similar problems but not as dramatic. They tried different releases of the firmware. I also tried the latest firmware release to no effect.
Both the android and iPhone apps work great.
** edit **
I think I found the problem! It a power supply issue. I can not take credit for finding the solution, however, I found a post from a guy in Britain ( I presume, use of the word whilst) who discover that plugging the TP-Link into a USB 3.0 hub solved his problem. His problem was very similar to mine. The TP-Link in certain operational situations apparently draws at or above 1A. I tried my TP-Link on a 0.85A supply and it would not even boot. If I discover more, I will start a new thread. This strayed from my original topic.
Bill – AB6OR
Hi Bill, I was not aware that the TP-link router draws that much current. I did some measurement before and I think the peak current draw I’ve seen is about 400mA whereas the average current draw is just around 200 to 300mA. To make sure we are on the same page, this is the TL-WR702N router, right?
Correct. I may have a bad one (the guy in Britain as well). The 850 mA supply would not run it. It would not even do a hard reset. The power supply that came with it would give me iffy operation. It would seem to run but would not reset and reboot through the menu. Right now I have it running off a 5.25 (instead of 5) volt one amp supply in AP mode. It seems to be working.
The opensprinkler is running fine hooked up to my router.Except for an allergy attack from running CAT5 in the attic crawlspace, I think this is a cleaner installation anyway.
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