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Well, I’ve been messing around with my ospi setup, and plugged in the zone expander incorrectly. Instead of having all 8 pins connected I had the front 4 pins on OSPI board connected to the back 4 sockets of the cable. When I tried to run an expander zone, I smoked the pi. I have replaced the pi, and everything boots up but only the first 8 zones on the main board will run. Is there any way for me to trouble-shoot whether its a problem with the main board or the expander?
I don’t see anything burned, but since the pi will no longer power up,(the original, a new one boots and runs), I’m surmising it’s probably something with the main board?
Maybe this will help? With the Ospi powered up and expander connected, no zones active: COM to Zones 1-8 indicate ~7.5 VAC, Zones 9+ indicate ~11.5 VAC. Zone 1 active = 26 VAC, Zone 9 Active=~11.5 VAC (i.e., no change).
What values should I see on the expander out pins?
Anyone? I need to get my system back up. I would like to determine whether I need a new Ospi board, expander board or both.
I was hoping it was just a $30 mistake, but looks like more now. 😏
To check if the expansion board is still ok, you can open it up, and then use a multimeter’s diode test function to check the gate to ground forward drop voltage on each of the triac. Specifically, open the triac’s datasheet:
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BT1308W-600D.pdf
page 2 figure 5 shows the pin names of the triac. Put the multimeter’s positive (red) probe to pin 3, and negative (black) probe to pin 1. The forward drop voltage should be somewhere between 0.6 to 0.7 volt. If it’s very low or there is no forward drop voltage that means the triac is dead.
Thanks, that’ll get me started!
Well, it appears the expansion board is OK. Is there anything I can check on the main board? Any component that might be replaceable without replacing the whole board?
Again, zones 1-8 work fine, but it appears the main board is not sending 26VAC to the expansion board? (see above posts)..
Well, I officially fried the main board. I was trying to hook up my rain sensor, in series with the old controller, and something shorted. I saw sparks at the old controller, and then the power was lost to the main board (fuse?). My pi is still ok, boots, etc., but the main board will not power up at all.
Is it worth sending it in for repair, or am I better off just ordering a new board? Do you sell just the board, minus the enclosure, for slightly less $$??
Thanks for the help, I won’t be doing that again! :-{
If it’s a couple of components that need replacing it probably makes sense to replace. Otherwise it’s not worth repairing. We can sell just the board without enclosure for $11 less. Please submit a support ticket to arrange for special purchase.
Hi, Ray
I’ve got a bad valve that is burning up Triacs. The NXP part number you mentioned earlier is no longer available. There’s a 400v version. There’s also this one. The link is to Mouser. Can you make a recommendation as to which one I should use to replace the burned out ones? Thanks!
Mike
While your at it maybe some inline fuses? The inline fuse holders I use on all my zones (and common) cost $3 for 10, delivered.
Thanks a bunch, BinaryOS. What amperage did you use, if I can ask. I think I saw here in the forums 1amp minimum. Do you remember if that’s what you used? I also wonder if there’s a case here for some advanced boards with this kind of protection as well as confirmatory logging? For instance, my logs were saying that the zone in question was watering but it wasn’t. It would be nice to have some advanced way to protect and confirm that Irrigation has happened.
All that said, if you happen to remember the fuse amps, I’d be glad to know what size you used. Otherwise, I’ll send in an order on Wednesday for the fuses and fuse holder. Thanks for the great suggestion.
Mike
Open sprinkler Specs:
“Maximum output current: 800mA continuous (@24V AC) per zone, 6A impulse / inrush.”I’ve got 500mA zone fuses and 1500mA on common return, I only run two at a time (master + zone).
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