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Hi,
This is the second time it happens where a solenoid jams (needs to be replaced) however I only find out due to a power supply failing. Here is what I had purchased (end of 2023) for version idea. I am using rainbird solenoids if it helps any.
OpenSprinkler Choose Power Version: OS3.0 AC-powered OpenSprinkler Zone Expander Hardware Version: 3.0 (for OpenSprinkler 3.0) Power Option: AC (for controller with orange terminal block)I need to go purchase a power supply, so I am unable to show pictures of my request/question. I do know that on the display it shows the mA that are going to the solenoid. This is how I was able to find the failed solenoid last time. Would it not be possible to “shut off” the unit (or even just the zone) if the mA amount is too high? An email alert would be a nice touch as well.
Also, along the same lines – what fuse would you recommend if I were to put it inline with the power supply? I am having trouble finding 24vac fuses.
Thanks
1) From firmware 2.2.1(3) and onward the firmware has Overcurrent protection that can automatically turn off zones if it detects overcurrent. You just have to set it to match your transformer’s current rating. Overcurrent is also sent over notification channels. Since you didn’t report your firmware version, we can’t tell if your firmware has this feature or not.
2) Your transformer may be undersized. For example, a 500mA transformer will slowly burn out if you draw more than 500mA current from it. This happens more often if you run multiple zones at the same time. That’s why if you do run multiple zones at the same time you need to get a transformer with higher current rating.
3) Again, fuse rating needs to match your transformer’s current rating. There are no 24VAC fuses – fuses are generally rated 250VAC – the voltage doesn’t matter because the fuse limits current, not voltage. So just pick a 250VAC fuse with current rating matching what you need to limit.
Thanks for the quick reply Ray – I have always been impressed with OpenSprinkler service right from the start (I had asked you a few questions before doing the order)
As for your comments:
1 – unfortunately with no power supply I can’t comment on the firmware, will update you once I replace the power supply (It’s a long weekend here unfortunately so everything is closed)
2 – I was mistaken when I said my solenoids were rainbird – only my heads are. I forgot that I had went with Orbit 57253 solenoids. I only run a single zone at a time. I couldn’t find any official source, however Gemini AI shows the following (I’m cautious on relying too much on this but it sounds somewhat correct):
Electrical Specifications Voltage: 24 VAC (Standard for residential irrigation controllers) Current Draw (Holding/Running): ~0.2 amps (200 mA) Inrush Current (Initial Activation): Higher momentarily (often up to 0.35–0.4 amps) before settling into the holding draw.3- This was the power supply I’ve been using: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/rain-bird-120-v-universal-irrigation-timer-replacement-transformer-ut-1-32025004 Rated for 650mA.
I’m thinking of getting a fuse “rack” and with glass fuses. I’m thinking of fusing each zone individually (along with a slightly bigger fuse for the power supply) to be able to see which zone fails easily. Any recommendations?
If you run one zone at a time, and this is a fairly common 24VAC valve, I find it puzzling that can burn out the transformer, even if the plunger was stuck – that will only draw about 400mA, well below your transformer’s current rating. Have you performed a solenoid resistance testing to rule out any possible shorted solenoid / shorted wiring issue? Instructions are here:
https://opensprinkler.github.io/OpenSprinkler-Firmware/troubleshooting/#wiring-and-solenoids
That’s the best way to ensure there is no shorting issues on the solenoids or wiring, and it’s very easy / quick to do.I finally replaced the power supply with the same one.
Here are the readings. My current values are higher than what you say (you mentioned stuck value of 400mA where that is pretty much my operating it seems) as the ones running good are almost that. Zone 4 was the only one that seemed higher than the rest but nothing as high as I had found one last year (can’t remember the number unfortunately). Ohm was with my multimeter, and the amps was just taken from the display so not entirely sure how accurate it is.
(If the chart doesn’t look good after posting I will edit the post)
Zone | ohm | amp
01 | 57 | 355-400
02 | 56 | 355-380
03 | 57 | 370
04 | 57 | 350-455
05 | 55 | 350-380
06 | 60 | 340-360
07 | 55 | 355-380
08 | 58 | 355-380
09 | 57 | 355-380
10 | 55 | 355-380
11 | 61 | 330-350
12 | 57 | 350-370
13 | 62 | 330-350
14 | 61 | 330-360
15 | 61 | 350-360I was running Firmware: 2.2.0 (3). I have now updated to 2.2.1 (5) and set the Overcurrent to 650. The readings above were taken under the old firmware.
I decided to run my zones one by one to make sure the valve was actually opening. To my surprise, Zone 4 software overcurrent trigger (2100mA). I find it odd that I didn’t see that on the display when running it previously on the old firmware, might be only on inrush that it’s that high then goes down to 455 after?
My thought was to go overkill and install fuseable terminals so I can easily monitor when one creeps up. I’m not a fan of relying on software for protection. I already have the terminals and din rail so it’s not much of an expense just to get the fuses. I work in the power industry where fuses are very precisely chosen so I am probably over thinking this. I found the fuses here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0DQ84TZF8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A5MP15WR41WGG&th=1
I was going to fuse the main power with 630 fast blow, and each zone individual with 0.5 time lag (I assume there is a inrush current of some sort?). Thoughts?Final edit: I am on hard water (well water), and my sprinkler does not go through a filtration system (would cost a fortune). I have a feeling they are getting calcium buildup which is causing them to fail one by one. Last year was the last one.
The currents are abnormally high. The values always feel like inrush current, like when the solenoid plunger remained out and not pulled in. A few things to confirm:
1. When a zone is on, do you observe water flowing? If so, that means the solenoid is activated (plunger is in), so that rules out plunger out (hence the solenoid is drawing inrush current instead of holding current).
2. Just to be sure, you should post real captured photo of the transformer label just so we can verify it is indeed a standard 24VAC transformer.
3. It’s certainly possible the current sensor on your OpenSprinkler is not accurate, but this doesn’t explain why the previous transformer burned out – an indication of an overcurrent situation.The most reliable way to verify solenoid current would be to connect your transformer directly to a solenoid, and put a multimeter in series to measure the AC current. This will give you accurate reading of the holding current the solenoid draws. If it’s still above 300mA, then either the transformer voltage is too high, or the solenoid has an issue and drawing way too much current (the rated should be about 200mA).
1. Yes, water is flowing
2. Yes it is. See attached: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KFSgmeCBCnNfbGNi9
3. I had confirmed one zone running too high last time (although I can’t remember the amps). This time, once the firmware was updated it did detect 2A on one zone. With the old firmware it would just sit there until it burnt out.I’m not sure if you saw my previous message, but I am on hard water. It is possible that every single valve is calcified and needs more current to stay open to fight any build up in the valve?
As for you test solution, I currently have fused terminals that I am wiring, I can easily just open them and bypass it with my multimeter in series there without rewiring anything. It would keep the opensprinkler unit in the loop as well. I’d even be able to jumper the power supply directly to the valves this way. It created lot of work but will help for testing.
I don’t think calcified valve has anything to do with this: that concerns the mechanical part of the valve, which does not affect how much electric current the solenoid draws.
What I still don’t understand is: even at 400mA current draw, it shouldn’t have burned out your transformer, which is rated 650mA. It’s possible that one valve is shorted and that one blew up the transformer, but you said that valve draws high inrush current but the holding current is still about 400mA. So how the transformer was burnt still doesn’t have a good explanation.
You may have missed my comment about how once I updated the firmware it detected one of the solenoids pulling 2A. Must be momentary because I couldn’t see it on the running display on the old firmware.
I’m re-wiring with fuses as we speak.
I will still take readings because I want to see if 400mA is accurate or not, as based on what you are saying seems high as it is.
It would also be helpful if you can submit a support ticket at:
support.opensprinkler.com
attaching a copy of your configurations. This will help us check if there may be a settings issue. Do not post your configurations in the forum here as your configuration file may contain sensitive information such as your location, token, key etc.
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