April 26, 2020 at 6:49 pm #65448
Hi. I had Opensprinkler for many years. Every winter, I remove my valves physically (couplers on the lines and disconnects on the electrical) and re-install in the spring. I’ve done this many times.
In the summer of 2018 our house burned severely in a fire and it was repaired at the end of 2019. I replaced my Opensprinkler with the latest unit. The valves weren’t damaged in the fire. The wiring was, of course. I ran new wires temporarily over ground to the valves and hooked everything back up. But none of the 7 valves turn on.
Did I manage to get the wrong version of Opensprinkler? When I bought it the first time I don’t think there were different versions.
I ordered the DC version and I have standard 24VAC valves. That seemed weird to me (using DC for AC) but I’m not electrician and the FAQ seemed to say that either could power 24VAC valves, but the DC version came with the power adapter and the AC was extra, so I saved a few dollars. Was that a mistake?
From the unit’s perspective, it thinks it is working. I turn a zone on and the display on the unit shows some 200 ish mA output and the app says the system is running. But at the valve end, there’s nothing going on. I could see that maybe I didn’t connect something right, but that would be unlucky since there’s two cables going to two boxes (one with 4 zones, one with 3) so I would have had to mess it up the same way twice. Nevertheless, I double-checked the wiring and everything seems solid to me
I’d be grateful for any troubleshooting tips. Thanks.April 27, 2020 at 11:34 am #65468
200ish mA current when a zone is running seems normal. So the wiring and connection to solenoid seems fine. Two things to check first:
1. In Settings -> Advanced, check the ‘Boost Time’ option — its default value is 320ms. Has it changed?
2. Do you have a master or pump zone? If so, what’s the brand name / model number of your pump start relay? DC-powered OpenSprinkler is known to not work with all pump start relays, so if you do have one, it’s better to stay with AC-powered OpenSprinkler, or you can change your pump start relay to solid state relay which works well with DC OpenSprinkler.April 27, 2020 at 8:18 pm #65469
I’m starting to wonder if I have a defective unit.
I tried to get the answer to your first question. Now, I will preface this by saying I changed and touched NOTHING since I wrote the post above. So I was able (as of last night) to connect to the device, but now I can’t. I went into the utility closet and the unit itself was squealing quite loudly (for a small electronic device). I did notice a noise yesterday too (even before connecting the valves), but it was much more quiet. I did a factory reset and it did that, but every 5 and 30 seconds it would reboot on its own. I was unable to successfully connect to it to get the answer to your question. I’ll see the OS_XXXXXX wifi and I can connect to it briefly, and the unit will show its local IP but I can’t connect to that. At least not in time before it resets. I’ve disconnected all the valves’ wires to rule that out, but no change.
As for the second question: no, no master or pump zone. This is a pretty straight-forward basic controller-to-valve setup.April 27, 2020 at 8:21 pm #65494
All controllers have been triple tested at factory, so the change of defective on arrival is very small. Are you using the power adapter shipped with the controller or are you using your own power adapter? I have never heard of the issue of a ‘squealing loud’ sound — is it coming from the controller or the power adapter? You should send a support ticket and arrange for support. The forum is for community-based discussions and we may not respond to forum posts every day. If you have an urgent problem that needs support, you should use the support system. We need your order number and sometimes need you to export your configurations, which are not suitable for posting on the forum. Leaving such questions on the forum will likely result in delay in handling the request.
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