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I have a problem where my pi ran fine for months then started to act a bit flaky locking up and random times then got to a point where it wouldn’t run for more than 10 minutes without locking hard. Now I am running it off external usb power supply and all has been stable for several months. I would like to get it back to running off the 24v adapter instead of having this external cord and the case apart is there something I can check on the board itself? The power supply is 24v @ 1.667A should be more than enough.
Which version of OSPi do you have? Version 1.0 uses MC34063, and it’s not as robust as LM2596 adopted in versions 1.1 and 1.2. You can send an email to [email protected] and we can arrange for a repair or replacement.
Got the replacement and unboxed it today mounted it and was doing the test before connecting it to the pie. When I flipped the switch the LED came on for a brief second and went out. I tried checking voltages got .2V from gnd to the 5V on the board and the no load voltage of the transformer is 25.8V when I turned it on last there was a visible arch around D3 and the LED hasn’t come on since. I tried measuring between pin 3 and 1 on the LM2596 and expected to see 25V instead it read 75V. I quickly powered it off and went to the power supply thinking maybe it was messed up. I check the voltage at the adapter and it read 25.8V. I powered it on and it dropped to 25.6V so nothing odd here. Any suggestions on things I can do?
Hmm, this is very strange. All boards have been tested and verified to work before shipping, and the fact that it burned without load (i.e. before you connected it to Pi) is even more bizarre. Off my head I don’t know what happened. You did make sure nothing else was connected, and there were no metal pieces or wires surrounding the board that could possibly short things out, right?
By the way, we can send you another replacement. If this still doesn’t work, I suggest that you look into getting a new transformer. You can check the store page for recommended transformer:
http://rayshobby.net/cart/opensprinkler/ospi-12I’ve been probing all over the 1.0 board and the voltages are the same across the different components and I’m getting more confident this was just a fluke. Can you give me the details on d3 I might have one in my spare parts to try and swap it out and see if that fixes it. If not I don’t have a problem grabbing the power supply form home depot for 15 bucks to be safe with a new one.
D3 is a 5.6V zener diode. Its purpose is over-voltage protection. Here is what I suggest: desolder D3, and then measure the *resistance* between +5V (VIN) and GND. If the resistance is somewhere in the range between 4.4K to 5K, that means the switching regulator is still likely to work. If not (for example, only a few ohms), the switching regulator has been damaged, and I suggest that you send an email to [email protected] so we can arrange for a replacement.
Thank you the replacement appears to be working as expected. Do you want me to return the other one?
Yes, if it’s convenient for you please return the other one so we can diagnose what may have happened. I will send you an email offline to arrange for the return.
I believe I might be having similar issues.
I received the OSPI v 1.2 board a few days ago and was running perfectly for a day and a half, since then every few minutes it seems the OSPi is rebooting as I can see it connecting / disconnecting constantly on my switch. The power supply has now been swapped (removed the power connectors from the sprinker board and replaced it with the usb power). It has only been an hour or so now, but it hasn’t dropped out since.
Is there any test I can do (apart from trial and error) to find out that it is 100% the sprinkler board playing up?
Also I don’t believe I received the screws / board lifters in my kit originally.
Can you provide some details about your setup? For example, what type of AC transformer do you have? Are you using a WiFi dongle or wired Ethernet connection? Have you set up a sprinkler program and if so does it open multiple valves at the same time?
One likely cause for the rebooting is that the voltage may be dropping below an acceptable level. For example, if the AC transformer’s current rating is not sufficient, or if multiple valves open at the same time that exceeds the capability of the transformer, or if for some reason the RPi is drawing a large amount of current from OSPi. Knowing your setup will help diagnose the cause.
Regarding the screws and support pillars, sorry about that. Those should be included in the kit in a blue plastic bag. You can send an email to [email protected] with your address and we will send it to you. Thanks.
@ray wrote:
Can you provide some details about your setup? For example, what type of AC transformer do you have? Are you using a WiFi dongle or wired Ethernet connection? Have you set up a sprinkler program and if so does it open multiple valves at the same time?
Thanks for your quick reply. I had it running of separate power all night and did not see it disconnect from the switch. I have now swapped the power back to the sprinkler board supplying it and I will monitor today and see if it does drop.
I purchased the kit and the power supply from your Australian reseller, OpenLab. It looked like the transformer was suggested on their site. http://openlab.com.au/shop/24-volt-ac-mains-adapter/
I am using wired ethernet and am using the mobile default application (ip/sprinklers) and previously I had no more than 2 valves open at once for testing, but in day to day usage I can’t use more than 1 at a time as the water pump can’t handle two runs on at once. The first day I had it running, it could open two valves at once with no issues that I could see. The raspberrypi is rebooting even while no valves are open.
I believe the constant random rebootings have corrupted something to do with the program, so I will reinstall your supplied sd image today and test further for stability.
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