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OpenSprinkler Pi works fine with RPi 3 but ….
RPi 3 wifi likes to go to sleep. You need to:Edit file /etc/network/interfaces
Assume you Pi connect to network through wlan0. Add new line with wireless-power off right above the line iface wlan0 inet manual
Save and reboot your Pi
run iwconfig now you should see Power Management:offOpenSprinkler Pi does NOT supply enough power to run RPi 3.
- RPi 3 needs to have its own power supply, really
. To make matters more confusing, RPi 3
must be powered up BEFORE OpenSprinkler Pi or the RPi 3 will not boot due to being under-powered. This makes it problematic to power-cycle
the whole system.Hope this is helpful.
Thanks for the tip. Indeed the current batch of OSPi was manufactured before RPi 3 was announced. It’s hard to keep track of all different versions of RPi and match the power requirement. Because RPi 3 can, in theory, draw up to 3A from 5VDC, this is pushing the limit of the 24VAC power supply: 3A*5VDC = 15Watt, this means just supplying power to RPi 3 may exceed the power rating of the 24VAC adapter. SO I think it’s better to power RPi 3 separately with its own USB adapter.
I was configuring my OSPi today and came across this thread.
The RPi 3 MB is configured, the power on the OSPi board has been checked and I’ve assembled everything. I was going to swap out my current RainBird controller for my OSPi tomorrow, using the power supply I bought when I purchased my OSPi.
Should I use the RainBird power supply, instead? The output is rated at 25.5 VAC 1A.
If not, how should the RPi 3 MB be powered on its own if it already accepts power from the OSPi?
[Update: I found the answer buried in another thread. (https://opensprinkler.com/forums/topic/pi-3-wifi-degrades-when-zones-are-active/)]
I currently only run one zone at a time, so I’m going to connect it as configured and see how it works. If it becomes problematic, I’d rather switch to a Zero than attempting to remove the PTC fuse.
I have my OSPi running with a RPi 3 MB. So far, so good. I only energize 1 zone at a time, and am using the .5 amp power supply. I have an ethernet cable for the internet, so not using the WiFi. I want to use my Hunter 1 amp for my pool timer/controller that I am building, so hopefully the .5 amp will be good.
So I have it up and running now: 105 ma when no valves energized, 225ma when a valve is energized. Should be all good.
Thanks for posting the updates. If OSPi turns out to be insufficient at powering RPi 3, my suggestion is to power RPi 3 directly with a microUSB cable and USB adapter. Generally it’s fine to have the system powered simultaneously by USB and 24VAC. If needed, you can remove the PTC fuse on OSPi, so that the 5V output from OSPI will be disconnected from the 5V from USB.
I’m running into an issue using a Raspberry Pi 3 and OSPi 1.4 where it just boots to RGB Debug screen and just sits there when using the latest SD card image downloaded from the link in ospi14_manual.pdf. I’ve tried powering with both the 24V AC supply through the OSPi as well as with a 5V (2.5A) DC USB supply (both plugged in the OSPi as well as standalone). I verified that the MD5 is correct on the .7z file downloaded (and downloaded it twice as well as extracted each download twice), tried flashing it to the SD card multiple times (using Win32DiskImager), and tried two different 32GB SD cards (one from SanDisk and one Samsung EVO). I then tried flashing Raspbian Jesse on the SanDisk card, and it boots up without issue. Has anyone run into this issue? Any thoughts on how to resolve it? If I can’t get the OSPi SD Card image working, are there instructions for how to manually setup the software in Raspbian? Thanks for the help!
I was having the same issue.
Ultimately, I was able to install NOOBS on the SD card and used it to install Raspbian.
Once that was working, I built OSPi from source. (Search the forums.)
Thanks for the quick response, gadgetboy! I first had to deal with issue of SSH not working with the RPi3 on-board Wifi chip (resolved by upgrading to latest version of Raspbian Jessie), and now was able to get everything up and running.
Just in case anyone else comes across this thread, the way I resolved my issue of the OSPi SD Card image just booting to an RGB Debug screen on Raspberry Pi 3 was to install Raspbian on the SD card, and then follow these instructions to download and build OSPi:
Download and Build OSPiRunning good with the RPi3, except if the unit reboots, I noticed that the ethernet (I’m using a wired connection) connection dies about 5 secs or so after it boots up. But if I unplug the ethernet cable from my network before booting, and then plug it in after it is booted, the network stays on. Is this a power supply issue? Would plugging in the RPi3 power supply help this?
Thanks,
JeffI have to power the RPi3 and then power the OSPi. If I power the OSPi first then the RPi3 won’t boot at all because the RPi3 switches off due to undervoltage.
The pre-configured SD card image does NOT support RPi 3 — it was made before RPi 3 was announced. Instead, you should start with a working Raspbian installation and just follow the OpenSprinkler firmware installation instructions to install firmware yourself:
Hello,
Can you tell me how you have got running your RPi3 with Opensprinkler, because i am working on this since days and the complete same operating system with Ospi is working great on the RPi2 but not on the 3rd version.
Can you maybe post some more information, like operating system, version, wiring, …Thanks, Armin
Hello,
1.) Format your MicroSD with SD Formatter 4.0: Raspberry Pi Software Guide
2.) I used Noobs 1.9.2 from here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/noobs/
Easiest way is to hook up a screen, mouse and keyboard to your RPi 3
3.) Install Raspien Jesse from Noobs.
4.) Open a Command Prompt window. Follow Part A from here: Installing and Updating the Unified firmware
5.) Follow from User Manual : OSPi v1.4+User Manual to assemble and wire your OSPI and RPi 3.Hope this helps,
JeffHi..as per my knowledge RPi 3 can, in theory, draw up to 3A from 5VDC, this is pushing the limit of the 24VAC power supply: 3A*5VDC = 15Watt, this means just supplying power to RPi 3 may exceed the power rating of the 24VAC adapter. SO I think it’s better to power RPi 3 separately with its own USB adapter.
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