[ashdavely]

If the ATTINY45 IC is missing will it prevent open sprinkler from starting?

[ashdavely]

I replaced the zener diode and the switching regulator and It’s working now. I can’t tell you how those components became damaged unless one arrived doa… I can successfully turn on a solenoid with the web interface. I’ve not yet hooked it to an actual valve but I am sure it will work. Thank you so much for your help.

[ashdavely]

D1 is showing 1.35volts, replace? D2 is .17volts. They are both installed correctly.

I have replacement components on the way should be here by Thurs. Glad I ordered some extra ones.

[ashdavely]

It works via USB. I am able to view the interface with browser, which is very exciting.

I guess I still need help with the 24v side. The zener diode seems pretty important so I think I need a new one installed before doing much else. Do all the 24v conversion components needs to be replaced?

[ashdavely]

I had a spare linear regulator on hand and now get 3.2v on VCC.

I don’t have a spare zener diode on hand but I can order from digikey. Is it possible to get it working without the zener diode still powering by usb? Obviously it won’t have 24vac to activate a solenoid…but maybe enough to get the ic’s/ethernet working?

During the build initially I tested vin and vcc with the correct voltages before adding the remainder of ics and lcd. After adding those the linear regulator and zener diode became damaged. Do you think there are any other spare components I should get from digikey?

[ashdavely]

I am powering it by usb only so far. The linear regulator has already been removed (as well as zener diode). Do I still need to check D2 and C2?

[ashdavely]

Removed the zener diode. Testing it with my Horrible Freight multimeter shows .001 when testing it both directions so I am assuming that means its damaged. I now get 4.97v on the VIN but only 2.5v on VCC so I am assuming something else is likely damaged or its caused by the missing components. What should I do next?

I know, I need a new multimeter.

Thanks for your help so far!

[ashdavely]

Resoldered power switch with flux and tested with mulitmeter.

linear regulator removed, no change.

I also removed the usb connector and replaced with a new one. No difference. My usb power supply light flashes when connected which means there is a short somewhere.

I removed the extra header I soldered to the VIN/VCC area and i think i’ve begun to damage some of the pcb traces. Copper is exposed in a few places. Posting picture.

My soldering iron is 60 watts, with a chisel tip. Plenty hot. Maybe too hot?

I’ve spent a great deal of time looking at my soldered connections with magnifier and nothing seems obvious. Anything I can check next?

[ashdavely]

VIN shows 002 resistance and VCC shows nothing (open?) when mc34063 both inserted or removed. Do you still want me to remove the linear regulator?

It looks like I will need to get more flux to fix the power switch. It just seems to ball up on the pins. Probably won’t have it till the end of the week. Thanks for getting back to me.

[ashdavely]

I also tested voltage on VIN and VCC powering with usb and voltages are even lower than with the orbit power supply.

[ashdavely]

No worries then. I will stick with 1.4. Thanks for the heads up on 2.0!

[ashdavely]

I recently put in an order for a diy kit, even though it’s out of stock. After hearing that 2.0 is coming I am wondering if I could get this version? Even if i have to wait a bit…

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