[gtman002]

Thanks for your comments.

I found a solution. It was not obvious, and somewhat contradicted any instructions that came with the device.

For the BL-MP01, you need to put the selector switch to “AP Mode”. Once you do this, then different setup screens become available in the web configuration screens. There is a new screen called WDS (Wireless Distribution System) which allows you to select “Bridge Mode”. I think this WDS is intended mainly for setting up multiple APs to act as a single wireless network with one SSID – so in my mind bridge mode doesn’t really fit on this screen, but maybe something was lost in translation or I’m missing something. Anyway, once Bridge mode is selected, enter in the MAC ID of your main wireless AP, the WPA2 key, set up the BL-MP01 to use the same channel as the main AP. Reboot, connect the mini-router to the opensprinkler, leaving it set to ‘AP mode’ on the selector switch.

Once I did this, then DHCP worked and the opensprinkler received a 192.168.15.nnn ip from my main router DHCP server. The ‘routing’ function seemed to be disabled, and I can connect through my normal PCs now without issues caused by multiple networks.

Thanks again for the help.

Regards,
Glen

[gtman002]

Hi Ray,

I received the replacement components and soldered them in place. Everything seems to be working well now.

I’m sure the zener diode was destroyed because the resistance between the new and old one was very different. I also replace IC1 and D2 at the same time – not sure if there were issues with these components or not, but they were already out, and I had new ones to put in. I checked resistance between VIN and GND and measured >10 kohms, and about 80 ohms depending on which way I put the leads on. After powering up, VIN read 5.0 v +/- .1 and VCC was 3.3 v +/- .1.

The display is functioning as expected.

I’m struggling a bit with my ‘mini-router’ now but I think I make a new thread for that.

Thanks for your help!
Glen

[gtman002]

Hi Ray,

Thanks for the tips.

I started with step 1 and found that the resistance between VIN and GND was low, ~4 ohms. I removed IC1, then started taking components off. When I took the zener diode D3 off, the resistance went up to around 80 ohms. So I continued taking things off. I took IC2 off, C2 then D2. At each step I started to notice that it depended on the mutlimeter’s polarity as to whether I’d get the 80 ohm reading or not. After taking D2 off I got a high resistance. Then it dawned on me that the polarity probably does matter on the multimeter since we’re checking a diode. Anyways, 80 ohms also seems too high to me for D2 but I don’t really know much about Schotky Diodes… or maybe my mutlimeter isn’t effective at measuring it.

So I checked the zener off the circuit board and it measures ~2 ohms in both polarities so I think that is definitely shot.

I believe the root cause to be a small wire clipping from one of the other components that was sitting on the top side of the board which I noticed after the first power on. It was near the 24 vac components so could have shorted something.

I’ll send a PM requesting some replacement parts.

Regards,
Glen

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