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Sorry for the delayed response. Forgot I had this tab open.
@ray wrote:
I’ve never seen this happening. Since the LCD and the webpage both pulls time value from the controller’s internal variable, I can’t thinking of any reason that would cause what you described. Is it still the case or it’s now in sync?
I just double checked and it indeed still says ‘TUE’ on the screen even though the date (4/16) and time are both accurate. I even accessed the device remotely and it shows the correct day and date. I’m not sure how only the display seems to show a different day. It’s not mission critical really but still…
@ray wrote:
The PORT# is never adjustable on the controller (i.e. using buttons) — you need to change it through the web interface (on the options page). This is due to a rather technical reason that the port number is stored in 2 bytes and all options that are editable on the controller are single bytes.
Like I said, I wasn’t sure if this was something I remembered adjusting from the device or not but I do recall adjusting it almost immediately so I guess I thought maybe I had done it from the controller itself. It makes sense that I probably did it remotely once I got it on the network so this is no change from default then.
@ray wrote:
Indeed the MAC has been changed (it’s a rather accidental change when I worked on the firmware code).
I see. I thought with the other things I was losing my mind here. I have dynamic static MAC routing enable don my router so it had assigned IP & port preferences to the previous MAC and I wasn’t sure why it wasn’t jiving until I did a discovery from my router again and say a new MAC address for the controller. Once I made this adjustment all was right with the world but prior to that it really had my scratching my head.
@ray wrote:
It should wake up on button press. Perhaps the controller was busy doing something when you click on the buttons. If this is a reproducible issue, I can check.
I just double checked this as well and it appears as though the buttons are waking it up again. Not sure what was happening but that behavior appears to have resolved itself after a combination of resets, reboots and some time.
@ray wrote:
The button images have been removed but will be added back in future firmwares. The reason they are removed is that the web interface of firmware 2.0.4 (mainly javascripts and images) can be served entirely locally from a microSD card. The factory default is to retrieve javascripts and images from the rayshobby.net server, but if needed these files can be moved to a microSD card and served on the controller itself. When this happens, it’s better to minimize web traffic by reducing the number of files. It’s pretty easy to set the remote javascripts to serve extra images and the microSD card version to not. I just haven’t got around time to make two different versions.
Understandable and I figured it was something like this since the new app and web app offered much GUI in comparison to the previous anyway. It seems that those who want a fanciful GUI can hit up the app and those who want a basic interface can have that via remote access directly. Makes sense.
@ray wrote:
This is correct. The device ID is not appended at the end of the name because if you have multiple opensprinklers connected on the same network, you will be able to tell them apart this way.
Yeah, I figured as much.
@Jer wrote:
Also, I’ve got a couple of weird issues since the update:
1) My unit’s display shows TUE even though the date & time are accurate and when I log into the device remotely it shows the proper day as FRI.
2) I can’t manually adjust my PORT # from the default 80 to what I currently have forwarded on my router for this device.
3) The MAC is a different address than it was before the firmware update. This has lead to me needing to make correction within my router’s Static DHCP settings so that it assigns the same IP and thus proper port forwarding to be visible outside of my network.
4) When the screen sleeps or goes into the dim mode none of the 3 side buttons (b1, b2 or b3) will wake it. Only a physical power down and back on with the toggle switch will wake it. To be fair, this happened only the one time after I updated the firmware and I haven’t yet had the ability to try to recreate.
5) My web access page looks completely different in that none of the buttons have colors or emblems the way they previously did with v2.0.0 so I’m not sure if this is a new change with v2.0.4 or not but I noticed as soon as I logged in that it looked much more plain.
6) In my router’s client list it now shows the device at this IP address as OpenSprinkler-00 as opposed to what it was previously called: OpenSprinkler.
So far, these are the first differences I am noticing.
As a note to #1 above, verified that the web UI shows proper date with FRI as the day and the device is still showing TUE with 3/28 and the proper time. Weird. Bug?
As a note to #2 above, I was able to log into my device remotely and change the port to the proper port and have it display as such from the web UI. When I view current connection status from the device itself (using b1) it reads proper port # as well. I’m not sure if I manually adjusted this from the device before putting it on my network or if I did it from the web UI as I did this time but I seemed to recall holding down b1 on the device to get it to the port number and manually changing it. Either way, I’m all set on that one but thought I would point that out in case it was a bug on the new firmware that didn’t allow you to manually adjust your port from the unit itself.
As to #4 above, it seemed to wake up fine this time using the b1 button so perhaps this was a one-time hiccup. I will keep an eye on that.
As to #5 above, this may have more to do with my router than the device. I will try a few things to see if this purges from it’s memory.
Also, I’ve got a couple of weird issues since the update:
1) My unit’s display shows TUE even though the date & time are accurate and when I log into the device remotely it shows the proper day as FRI.
2) I can’t manually adjust my PORT # from the default 80 to what I currently have forwarded on my router for this device.
3) The MAC is a different address than it was before the firmware update. This has lead to me needing to make correction within my router’s Static DHCP settings so that it assigns the same IP and thus proper port forwarding to be visible outside of my network.
4) When the screen sleeps or goes into the dim mode none of the 3 side buttons (b1, b2 or b3) will wake it. Only a physical power down and back on with the toggle switch will wake it. To be fair, this happened only the one time after I updated the firmware and I haven’t yet had the ability to try to recreate.
5) My web access page looks completely different in that none of the buttons have colors or emblems the way they previously did with v2.0.0 so I’m not sure if this is a new change with v2.0.4 or not but I noticed as soon as I logged in that it looked much more plain.
6) In my router’s client list it now shows the device at this IP address as OpenSprinkler-00 as opposed to what it was previously called: OpenSprinkler.
So far, these are the first differences I am noticing.
@ray wrote:
OK, glad to hear that you got it solved. Sorry that it took you so much trouble. Next time I will try to find a way to embed Java into the firmware updater program.
Yeah that may save someone some time. Anyway to have it point to either program folder? Like check the x86 one and if it’s not there go to the non x86 one or something? That may have prevented it because adding Java to install probably wouldn’t help since my install was correct it just put some needed files/folders in a place that the .bat wasn’t looking whenever you try to run it.
@ray wrote:
‘java’ is not recognized as an internal or external command, operable program or batch files.
This suggests that the system cannot find Java. You usually don’t need to add it to the system PATH variable manually, but since it’s not finding it, you can manually add it. First, find out where java.exe is installed. For example, on mine it’s at:
C:Program FilesJavajre7bin
it may be different on your computer so check to make sure.Then go to Start -> right click on My Computer -> Properties -> Advanced system settings -> Environment variables. Then look at System variables, find the Path variable, click on Edit, and append
;C:Program FilesJavajre7bin
at the end of the Variable value. Note the semi-colon, as it separates the newly added from the existing. Then click on OK and see if this makes any difference. If you open a command line window and type ‘java’, it should print out a bunch of java options and should not report ‘not recognized’.lol
I posted before I saw this reply and it looks like we both drew the same conclusion at about the same time. haha! 😆
Eureka! I finally got it to work. Rather than explain all the steps I did to get it to work here’s a short video outlining on another version of Windows what I did to get it to work:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X05JPrto_c8
Apparently it has to do with where the program is looking for Java in order to work and those with 64-bit architecture won’t have the same files in their Program Files folder because it’s in the x86 version.
Either way I’m am now looking at that secksi blue/purple/white window I’ve been anxiously awaiting so I should be able to handle it fine from here. Thanks for the help!
@Jer wrote:
@ray wrote:
Hmm, off my head I can’t think of anything else. I have a Win7 64-bit and the program runs fine on mine. Here is one more thing: can you run the bat file in command line, often that gives you more information about what’s missing. To run in command line, click on the windows Start button -> Run -> type in ‘cmd’, that will bright out the command line window. Then you have to ‘cd’ to the folder where the updater program is, and type ‘osFirmwareUpdater.bat’. Check the printout to see if it gives you more information.
Rebooted
Tried to run .bat again w/same result.
Tried to run from cmd and got the following message: ‘java’ is not recognized as an internal or external command, operable program or batch files.
Used REVO to uninstall JAVA and everything associated with it.
Rebooted
Installed most current Java from Oracle’s website & then ran the verify applet to very it was reading as current.
Attempted to launch w/the same results. Attempted to run from cmd with the same message.
I’m not sure what’s going on here but I specifically used my Windows 7 machine to avoid the horrors I read about with Windows 8 machines. I feel like I’m right on the edge of getting this done and have done everything right but I’m not getting anywhere.
Thoughts?
For the record, the ‘.bat’ file that I’m trying to run is the file: osFirmwareUpdater.bat that is located within the application.windows64 folder after I unzip the download.
@ray wrote:
Hmm, off my head I can’t think of anything else. I have a Win7 64-bit and the program runs fine on mine. Here is one more thing: can you run the bat file in command line, often that gives you more information about what’s missing. To run in command line, click on the windows Start button -> Run -> type in ‘cmd’, that will bright out the command line window. Then you have to ‘cd’ to the folder where the updater program is, and type ‘osFirmwareUpdater.bat’. Check the printout to see if it gives you more information.
Rebooted
Tried to run .bat again w/same result.
Tried to run from cmd and got the following message: ‘java’ is not recognized as an internal or external command, operable program or batch files.
Used REVO to uninstall JAVA and everything associated with it.
Rebooted
Installed most current Java from Oracle’s website & then ran the verify applet to very it was reading as current.
Attempted to launch w/the same results. Attempted to run from cmd with the same message.
I’m not sure what’s going on here but I specifically used my Windows 7 machine to avoid the horrors I read about with Windows 8 machines. I feel like I’m right on the edge of getting this done and have done everything right but I’m not getting anywhere.
Thoughts?
@ray wrote:
OK, I see. It probably means Java is not installed. Go to:
https://www.java.com/en/download/
and install Java. Then try it again.Nope. I have Java installed and even did an update a couple of weeks ago. To verify I ran the web app that verifies that you’re up to date and when that said I was I even used your link to try to install it again and it also said it’s already installed. Has to be something else.
@ray wrote:
Did you see a osFirmwareUpdater.bat file? Double click it and it will run. Just so you know, .exe, .com, .bat are all executable in Windows.
Yes, I tried that first. Double clicked and saw a cmd window flash open then closed. Then tried running as admin with the same results.
Downloaded the osFirmwareUpdater_win64.zip file and unzipped. What do I need to run within that to install the updater? I’ve poked around all the folders and can’t find the executable file to install. Usually I don’t have this much trouble with something so simple.
@ray wrote:
First of all, you posted a question about OpenSprinkler in the SquareWear thread, that’s kind of confusing to me. Next, as I said, you need to install USBtiny driver, not USBasp! The readme I was talking about is the Firmware Updater software. Specifically, at this link:
http://rayshobby.net/?page_id=732#upload
download and unzip the Firmware Updater program for your operating system (in your case, windows 64-bit). Next, in the unzipped folder there is an applications subfolder with a .exe file you can click and it will run. There is a big ‘README FIRST’ button at the top. That’s the readme I was referring to. The instructions are brief but contain only the necessary information so you don’t have to read a lot. Please first let me know if you have run the Firmware Updater program, then we can continue from there. Also, I am going to move this to the OpenSprinkler thread since it has nothing to do with SquareWear.I was just posting an update when I got an error so the thread must have been moving at that exact moment. I realized I was trying to install the wrong driver link but the weird part is that when I originally tried what I thought was the correct one I couldn’t get it to download so I don’t know if the server that hosted that file was down or what. Either way, I successfully installed the drivers and am ready for the next step. It looks like now I just download the GUI Based OpenSprinkler Firmware Updater (64-bit for me) from that same link, right?
@ray wrote:
If you have OpenSprinkler hardware version 2.0, you need to install USBtinyISP driver. As the README says:
Windows users: you need to install
– USBtinyISP driver (OpenSprinkler 1st-gen and 2.0s)Additional details about driver can be found in the firmware update instructions:
http://rayshobby.net/?page_id=732#uploadWhat readme? I’ve read several within the downloaded zip file and it still doesn’t make sense what step I’m missing. The link you posted for me to refer to is the exact same link I posted in my OP. I don’t understand what i’m supposed to do as normal channels of software manipulation don’t seem to apply. I can’t find any instruction so either it doesn’t exist or it’s hidden. I did everything contained within that link both you and I posted and I still can’t install the drivers.
@ray wrote:
To be honest, I am confused what exactly you are trying to do. My guess is that you are trying to pair two stations together, and make sure that they always come on together, is that right? If so, why not just hard-wire the two stations together into the same terminal port. Each terminal port can control 2 valves in parallel.
Because that makes running individual zones not possible w/o having to rewire again. So testing the zones at the start of the year or whenever I have issues or a need to run individual zones is a real PITA. Part of getting this controller was to be able to control such things easier via the GUI.
I don’t think it’s Pi.
I have sequential mode off and it’s still not able to do what I want. Yes, I can schedule two different zones to come on at the same time (which I’m doing) but this isn’t the option I’m requesting. Without this it’s very cumbersome to set a manual watering since I have to set up 8 programs when I could just do 4 instead. I need a better way to marry pairs of zones as it will make programming and controlling substantially easier. Having to do everything twice is making this controller a lot more complicated then it needs to be for my needs.
Watching this thread with some interest as I currently have a solution that isn’t meeting my expectations. It’s something I threw together and due to something in the firmware it’s having an unintended fatal flaw.
Currently I have two garage door openers. I bought two of the older Foscam security cameras (I have 9 in total) that have a relay output for being able to connect to security systems. There are four pins and across two of the pins it sends 3v so it was easy to simply back feed each camera into the manual button location (+ & -) on the overhead opener. This way I can use a phone app to easily trigger this as a toggle to open and close each garage door individually. I can also use the cameras in the same app to check status of the doors quickly since all of my cameras are on the same screen.
Now, the bad: It sends a 3v pulse as an ‘all clear’ should power be lost. This means that if power is ever lost to the cameras once it’s returned and they boot back up my garage door will open on it’s own. To circumvent this I’ve added a UPS to power these to prevent a potential power loss from opening my garage doors. I thought I had it all figured out even though we RARELY lose power in this area (maybe once in the last ten years or more) but there’s a glitch I wasn’t planning for. In the summer it gets hot enough that the cameras lose connection with the network for some reason. Then I have to climb up on a ladder to physically unplug the power input from each camera and plug it back in to reset (since the actual power is on UPS which is above the ceiling in the garage) the connection so they open. I’m going to set up a PoE on the network to have a central place to control power on all of my cameras (not to mention put on UPS easily) but am feeling that this solution is still less than ideal as I’m a stickler for security and while it adds convenience (I use it ALL the time from all over the country) it’s introducing a security breach that I’m just not comfortable with. I also am suspecting that it’s the cheap power sources that are dying under high heat but if it’s the camera itself than my PoE solution won’t correct this. It will just make it easier to reboot them when they crap out.
Fast forward to a while back and I have an OpenSprinkler system. I’m wondering if one could use my system (the cameras) to monitor and then use a couple of outputs on the OpenSprinkler to trigger the doors. Sort of combine both solutions to make it easier. Granted you would need a smart phone to view the camera and they’re not cheap at about $70ish but it’s also nice to be able to physically see your garage area versus just knowing the doors are open/closed. Obviously the $70 would net you some more benefits but I realize this may not be something everyone wants.
I would need a 3v output and a way to make it a short pulse. I’m thinking I could use the screen on the web UI to trigger one of those two zones for a second and that would probably be enough. Granted it wouldn’t be as streamlined as my current setup but it would also eliminate the problem of random door triggers.
Thoughts?
New guy! 😀
What wold you use to control this controller? In the picture it looks like the transformer for the OpenSprinkler itself is plugged into controller which is powered on/off by the OpenSprinkler…. how is this beneficial or am I seeing it wrong?
I’m having similar issues but I think I may have tracked it down to a NTP refresh interval which may be lengthy interval. In other words, your clock doesn’t refresh every few seconds and likely updates every few minutes/hours since it’s not something that needs to be regularly adjusted once it’s set. When I change my time zone within the options the device time displays the proper offset (-7 in my case for Mountain Time US) but the previous time is still displayed. I left it and came back to it the next morning and the proper time was displayed (well, not proper since I had left it at -5 30 as I was experimenting) so my guess is that when you adjust the offset to NTP (only way to adjust the time) you have to wait until the device polls the NTP for time, applies your offset and adjusts local time. I have nothing to confirm this yet as I just set it to the proper (for me) offset and am waiting to see if my theory proves accurate. So, you may try setting your proper offset and giving it some time. I agree this isn’t the most attractive way to address this but if this is indeed the case it should set itself properly on the next refresh/poll. Perhaps Ray can chime in on what this interval is set at and if my guess is accurate. Adding an option to manually set the time or even using PC time (I have several items set to poll the PC for current time which I prefer since you have one less port open to the public, one less device polling an outside source that has potential to become a way into the network) would be a good way to give more flexibility for end users or possibly have it poll immediately after making a change to reflect the proper time instantly would resolve such issues.
Just thinking out loud I guess and hoping someone with more knowledge on inner workings can chime in since I just received mine.
