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ArchprlestParticipantWell the information from the bom and the github has everything you need. I will upload the list I made but given everything is service mount parts and very small. Do some research and learn some basics how each component works else it might cost you more then just order ospi.
Good luck.
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ArchprlestParticipantThe file opensprinkler3.x_t might be exactly what I am looking for but for some reason I can not download the file from the forum post.
ArchprlestParticipantNo expiation board. I did open a ticket up. Using only 7 zones.
ArchprlestParticipantI am unable to answer that. I can post the parts I used. They may not be the exact part if you buy a pre-built one but it worked for me. I on holiday so won’t be able to post the list for a bit.
ArchprlestParticipantI use a 2a 125vac 63vdc smd fuse from digikey. Part number 507-1080-1-ND.
ArchprlestParticipantthanks, i was able to pull a DS1307 from an different project, and got the RTC clock working. Last thin gi need to figure out now is with the wifi stop work after a period of time.
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
ArchprlestParticipantGreat to hear that the value for the C7 does not really matter. I did have the D1 in backwards. after i replace the buck converter and flipped the D1 I found that the the biggest problem i had was a short on D3. now got a question; would a short (D3) that linked the 5V to ground kill the DS1307 RTC? Current i got power the the raspberry pi and the OS loaded. I can turn on each station and everything looks good, but the raspberry PI can not detect the RTC.
ArchprlestParticipantThe PCB i was able to get was for v1.42+, I done my best to figure out the part OS the EagleCAD file i can not find. From what i can tell the only difference was the 204v 3a relay was remove for the RF connection
There is a capacitor at c7 is the a 0.1u or a 0.01u. from the pictures i can find only i can not see the C7. There looks to be different PCB for the 1.42+ opensprinkler as the comments about the VIN are different form the PCB I got.
any ways i used a 0.1u cap for C7, and I think I get the diode for D1 put in back works because when i connect power i got nothing. The fuse at f1 blow. I may have fried the buck converter also with the multi-meter props (slip when testing the voltage to see where power was not going and shorted the V in with the 5V out pin. Made some nice sparks.
I can see how the DIY kit was discontinued the SMD part are a pain to solder in place with out the right tools and very hard to get the polity right. Order some more fuses and the buck converter and will try again (hope I did not fired anything else.)
ArchprlestParticipantThanks
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