[Ray]

Hi All,

I just re-updated the Jun 24 version of Dan’s interval_program. I thought I updated it correctly, but there may have been a glitch due to an earlier conflict. Anyways, hopefully the version currently on Rayshobby Github:
https://github.com/rayshobby/opensprinkler/tree/master/OpenSprinkler%20Pi/software/demos/interval_program
is the same as the version on Dan’s Github:
https://github.com/Dan-in-CA/opensprinkler/tree/master/OpenSprinkler%20Pi/software/demos/interval_program

-Ray

[Ray]

I agree that a preconfigured SD card is necessary, however, I frankly don’t have any spare time to work on this right now. If someone is willing to prepare an image file, and set it up so it’s easily upgradable, I am more than happy to host the file. I think the bigger issue is the update: since a lot of the software features are under development and testing, and frequently updated, there is no guarantee that a precofigured SD card, after software update, is bug-free.

[Ray]

You need to set time zone manually (i.e. the controller does not detect time zone automatically. You can follow the online user manual to see how to set time zone.

Regarding the time drift: when you reboot the controller (assuming it can connect to the Internet), it should grab the current time (based on your time zone setting). If the time doesn’t get updated, you should check if your controller has a valid IP. Without a valid Internet connection, it cannot perform NTP time sync.

[Ray]

1) if your transformer is only 7.2VA, you won’t be able to run activate two zones at the same time — if you do so, the transformer voltage will drop very rapidly and the valves will reset.
2) I don’t recommend wiring two transformers in parallel, especially since different transformers have slightly different output voltages, and I don’t know what would be the consequence if you connect them in parallel.

[Ray]

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for your excellent work. As the page grows longer, do you think it might be useful to split the content into subpages?

[Ray]

Automatic detection of DST will be implemented in the next firmware upgrade. For now you need to manually change the time zone (i.e. change your time zone to -7:00).

[Ray]

Concurrent running shouldn’t be a problem. Each zone has its own individual triac, which supports 800mA continuous and several amps inrush current. As long as your sprinkler transformer has a sufficient current rating, I see no problem turning on 6 zones at the same time.

180 zones is beyond the software limit of the microcontroller-based OpenSprinkler (honestly I am quite impressed that you have 180 zones…) However, OpenSprinkler Pi does not have any software limit on the number of zones.

Regarding concurrent vs sequential running modes, currently the only option is to globally switch between the two (i.e. either all stations run sequentially, or all stations are allowed to run concurrently). There is currently no support for subsets of sequential groups.

[Ray]

That’s right. Since quite a few users asked about this, I have added more details to the user manual. Please see this section for the explanation:
http://rayshobby.net/?page_id=3775#setup

[Ray]

Nice. Thanks for sharing!

[Ray]

@COsgood: the issue you encountered is probably a hardware problem. Here are two things to check: 1) is your sprinkler transformer rated at least 500mA output current? If the current rating is too low, you will have trouble turning 2 valves on at the same time; 2) does your controller have a yellow, disc-shaped PTC fuse? If so, consider soldering a wire across it to bypass the fuse. I’ve received reports that when the ambient temperature is high, the PTC fuse is likely to be triggered, causing the controller to freeze. Having 2 valves open at the same time will increase the chance of this happening. Shorting out the fuse will solve this problem.

[Ray]

Any reason why you are using a DC power supply? Since the controller uses triac to control valves, if you use a DC power supply, you will only be able to turn on a sprinkler valve and once on it cannot be turned off (because DC does not have zero crossings).

In any case, if you are using a DC power supply, you have to observe the polarity: on the 24VAC terminal, the pin closer to the USB port is tied to ground, so you should connect that to the negative wire of your DC power supply.

[Ray]

@talsprinkler wrote:

For the heck of it, i connected it up to the sprinkers and tried. I didn’t work. When i did a manual override on any of the 3 zones, the animation for each zone worked but they were not powered. I tested each zone with the volt meter and they did nothing.

I am running out of ideas.

Check your resistor arrays RN2 and RN3: make sure you’ve soldered the 220 ohm x 4 ones to them. If you accidentally soldered the 10K x 4 resistor arrays to RN2 and RN3, your valves will not be activated because the triac will not be able to turn on with such a large gate resistor.

[Ray]

Are you measuring AC or DC voltage? On the anode side of D1, it’s AC power; after D1 (rectification), there is basically only DC. So if you are still using your multimeter’s AC measurement you will get a reading of 0.

[Ray]

What do you mean by ’24V stops after it enters D1′? Do you mean that on the anode of D1 there is a voltage and on the cathode of D1 there is no voltage?

[Ray]

The masters currently cannot communicate with each other, and the web interface can only treat them as separate master controllers. There are some potential solutions you may consider. If it’s possible for you to extend the wires going to the valves, you can use the OpenSprinkler zone expansion board, so that one master controller and several zone expansion boards will sit together, and the wires going to valves all start here. The other possible solution is to have multiple controllers listen to a server (for example, use a Raspberry Pi), and the server will send out http commands to every controller in order to have a centralized control.

[Ray]

Cool, thanks for sharing and the detailed descriptions. I have never used Control4, but just did a quick search after seeing your post. Seems interesting. You may want to upload a couple of pictures (either here or on your blog) so that anyone who is interested can have a quick preview. Thanks.

[Ray]

@ntutak: can you find out which version of OSPi you have? Version 1.0 and 1.1 use different switching regulators. It is possible that when the ambient temperature is very high the switching regulator’s internal circuitry might shut it down. To test whether the issue is caused by switching regulator, you can simply unplug the 3-pin wire, and power RPi separately using a USB cable. See if the problem continues.

[Ray]

Hmm, that’s rather strange. I’ve never seen such a symptom before. 3.8V Vcc is definitely strange. It’s still within the mcu’s spec, so the mcu should be up running. But it’s certainly not normal (should be between 3.2V to 3.4V). I can’t think of any reason for the abnormal Vcc voltage. Assuming the MCP1702-33 is working (the chance of it being defective is very small), the only thing I could think of would be the capacitors C2 and C3. If these capacitors are not soldered reliably, or if you accidentally soldered the 10uF capacitor onto the position of 220uF, it may cause the voltage to be abnormal.

[Ray]

If the circuit works with USB power, it means at least everything other than the power supply section is working. Now, did you follow the build instructions to test VIN to GND voltage, as well as VCC to GND voltage? Are they roughly 5V and 3.3V respectively (assuming the controller is powered by 24VAC only)?

[Ray]

Ah, that’s a good suggestion and should be easy to address. The reason it does not allow 0 interval time is that the algorithm checks time match by computing:
if ((current_time – program_start_time) % interval_time == 0)
and a 0 interval_time would be invalid. But this can be easily addressed by adding a if statement before the checking to see if interval_time = 0.

I am actually surprised that you can set interval_time to 0: the Javascripts should check the validity of each parameter. Maybe I forgot to check this parameter…

[Ray]

I applied Samer’s patch to Dan’s interval program (per forum post viewtopic.php?f=2&t=154&start=40#p781) and checked it in to GitHub.
https://github.com/rayshobby/opensprinkler/tree/master/OpenSprinkler%20Pi/software/demos/interval_program
So it’s less confusion to anyone who is new to this thread. Sorry about the delay.

[Ray]

Not sure about the Swedish market. Do you have trouble finding a distributor? Have you tried your local home improvement stores? Here in the US you can buy valves in local stores, or online at amazon.com.

[Ray]

Ok, I see. Going back to your earlier question: yes you can run your valves as many individual programs (assume Sequential mode is turned off). Alternatively, you can exploit the available features in Sequential mode to achieve or approximate what you want.

[Ray]

The part name difference should not be a problem: we buy parts in different batches. Usually even if you order from the same supplier a few days apart, the part number can be slightly different. ‘ST CHN 063AC 41E241’ is an MC34063 chip, so no worry about that.

You can use this thread as a reference to troubleshooting:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=137

My suggested list in order:
1. test the resistance between VIN and GND. If it’s less than at least several kilo-ohms, some components must have been damaged and shorted. Start with zener diode D3, desolder it or simply clip it off, measure VIN-GND resistance again; if still too low, desolder or clip the MCP1703-33 linear regulator. Basically follow the components that have to do with the VIN line, and check them one after another, and replace if necessary.

2. If the VIN-GND resistance is above several kilo-ohms, the next thing you should try is to power the controller through USB. Plug in a USB cable, and measure VIN-GND voltage, which should be somewhere around 4.7V to 5V. Then measure VCC-GND voltage, which should be around 3.2 to 3.3V. At this point, you can plug in the other ICs and the controller should function normally (except since there is no 24VAC it can’t activate solenoids).

3. If your MC34063 is damaged, you should get it replaced. The final step is to go back to what you did before: test the power supply with 24VAC transformer. Just to be safe, you should take out all ICs except IC1. If it passes the voltage tests, you can then plug all ICs back.

To get replacement components, you can either follow the part list to buy them from Digikey, or you can send me an email and I will send you requested components at a nominal cost.

[Ray]

Wait, I thought you want the next zone to open a few seconds before the previous zone (your bullet 2). But in the example program you gave, zone 3 opens after zone 2 has closed. If this is the case, the firmware can already do this, and you can keep the controller in sequential mode. The firmware also supports fine tuning when the master valve will open. As I said in my previous reply: what’s not supported by default is opening a zone a few seconds before the next zone.

[Author]

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