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No, OpenSprinkler does not have USB host functionality, so you can’t use a USB adapter.
Please check this section of the user manual for recommended WiFi Adapters:
http://rayshobby.net/?page_id=3775#network
Also, this blog post explains how to power the WiFi adapter through the USB port:
http://rayshobby.net/?p=4233I would say it’s ok to put everything in a water tight box. I haven’t tried this myself, so I don’t know for sure. But the controller consumes less than 1 watt of power during operation, so I assume it shouldn’t produce much heat at all.
5V VAC? Or do you mean 5V DC? Do you have a 5V AC transformer or where is it coming from?
The LED is a power indicator, it is not for showing station status, it merely indicates the 5V line is available.
COM is connected to one of the 24VAC wires. If you don’t provide AC voltage to the 24VAC in terminal,, there won’t be any voltage output. 5V is only used for signal logic, it is not used to power the sprinkler solenoids.
The terminal screws are sourced from China and the part numbers are 2EDG5.08 8p. Someone else asked about this and found the equivalent digikey parts:
2 plug: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020007-G021B01LF/609-4179-ND/25091352 header: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-G021A01LF/609-4257-ND/2509105
8 plug: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020006-G081B01LF/609-3847-ND/2261392
8 header: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-G081A01LF/609-4261-ND/2509144
Note, however, the cutouts on the 1.3 enclosure are not high enough, so I suspect these parts won’t be able to pass through the enclosure (unless if you can cut the enclosure yourself, or leave the controller without enclosure).
Sorry, I don’t have any spare time to do that. If someone is willing to do this, I am happy to host and share the file.
If you mean the OpenSprinkler 1.x generation hardware, yes, Arduino 0023 in Linux is still the preferred software. The firmware for the upcoming 2.0 will compile in Arduino 1.04.
I just wrote a blog post this morning about a VirtualBox image for compiling the current OpenSprinkler source code. Basically I’ve created a virtual Linux image file with all the necessary software and tools pre-installed, so you can use it with VirtualBox for compiling the source code. The blog post is here:
http://rayshobby.net/?p=6149Unfortunately the firmware does not leave a way to manually set the clock (I didn’t think there would be a situation where you have Internet connection but no NTP sync). There are several ways you can set the clock (for example, plug it into another network which permits NTP sync, or upload an Arduino program that manually sets the clock. But in any case, I don’t recommend using the system without NTP, because the time will drift and after several months you may have to do the same trick again.
I suggest that you figure out the NTP problem because otherwise the controller time will start to drift. Are you connecting the controller to your router directly through wired connection, or are you using a WiFi adapter?
That’s a good suggestion, but for now I have to stick with the USB type B connector. The injection molded case is already in production, so I can’t change the cutout size now. Also, one supported feature is to power a WiFi adapter through OpenSprinkler’s USB port (http://rayshobby.net/?p=4233), and I worry that a micro USB connector would be too fragile and easy to break if you insert adapter to it.
Did you look at my second reply above? I still suspect that maybe your controller is not getting NTP sync signal.
One easy test to try is to take out the RTC battery (the CR1220 coin battery), wait for a minute, and then put the battery back and restart the controller. If it doesn’t get your current time, it means the controller is not getting NTP signal, that’s why it cannot update its time.
There were some efforts to make use of a Raspberry Pi to serve the Javascripts:
http://rayshobby.net/?p=5279
Basically the Raspberry Pi runs a small webserver (something as simple as a Python HTTP server is sufficient), and then you can modify the OpenSprinkler code to use Javascripts stored on your local server.If you have no Internet, the webpages won’t render correctly, so you can’t change any settings through the web interface. But you can still send http command. Basically the Javascripts are used to render the webpages, and to construct an HTTP GET command to send to the controller. If you know how the HTTP GET commands are constructed, you can send it without the webpages at all. The list of commands are documented here:
http://rayshobby.net/?page_id=730#httpget
It is very technical, so I don’t expect anyone to use these commands manually (unless if you write a program to do it).You only need Internet to set the programs (because some of the Javascripts required to render the webpage are stored on a server). Once the programs are set, the controller runs on its own without requiring Internet.
DS1307 and DS1302 have different pin layouts, and use different code. So you could use it but there will be a bunch of changes you have to make.
Well, it’s not the crystal body that attracts noise, but it’s the trace between the crystal and the DS1307 needs to be surrounded by ground trace. You can even solder the crystal directly onto the lower left two pins of DS1307, to hopefully reduce the trace length.
This means the RTC is not advancing time. In light of my blog post yesterday (http://rayshobby.net/?p=5962) one thing to try is to adjust the position of the 32.768kHz crystal, and resolder its pins to make it as close as possible to the PCB. If this doesn’t work, there may be an issue with the crystal, and I can send you a replacement crystal if you email me your mailing address. Thanks.
I am fairly confidence I’ve figured out the source of the problem, and reported it in this blog post:
http://rayshobby.net/?p=5962Anyone who has received the 2.0 development board and is having issue with it can email me at [email protected] for a free replacement. Thanks for your patience!
So you are looking for ‘pumps’ not ‘valves’. I don’t know much about pumps, but if it works with 24V AC, and the operating current is below 800mA, then it should work with OpenSprinkler.
The only control feature on the main unit is the self-test, which turns on each station for a specified amount of time one by one. This is activated by pressing pushbutton B1 while starting the controller.
I am curious what kind of controls you want your landscaper to have. If you want the landscaper to be able to set a complete set of programs on the unit, you probably should look at other options. The OpenSprinkler is designed for web-based programming, and its 3-button interface is not suitable for setting programs manually on the unit itself.
Yes, one wire from 24VAC transformer is the COM (common) wire, and the other wire should be tied to ground. AC transformer is no-polar, so it doesn’t matter which wire you pick as ground.
The code does not use RTC at all.
Well, I don’t have an estimate for how long it will take for DIY 2.0 to be ready. I don’t even have prototype DIY 2.0 yet. So it’s up to you whether you want to wait. Also note that the initial 2.0 firmware will be functionally the same as the current 1.4.
The backlight is LED-based, and 10mA is enough to make LEDs look really bright.
2.0 will come out soon as assembled (we’ve already distributed a development version to recent users who ordered 1.4s). However, DIY 2.0 will not be available soon, because it has to go with the new injection molded enclosure and we are still waiting for them to come. The current enclosure is too small for DIY 2.0 (which will adopt ATmega644 that is significantly bigger than ATmega328).
Also, if the time doesn’t change, that means it’s not getting NTP sync signal. Check if you have a valid Internet connection, and make sure the NTP port (123) is not blocked by your router.
