[cuteboi]

Well, it was worth asking.

[cuteboi]

I’ve seen power supplies die because they lack overcurrent protection. If there’s a short, that would cause the power supply to just burn out with a nasty smell. Only happens with the non-regulated power bricks I purchased from China/Ebay. really cheap. really dead.

[cuteboi]

lsusb to list out your usb devices, a strange looking entry should appear, also the tail of your dmesg or var log system messages should say it was able to initialize. If it was unable to initialize, power down your computer system, and start it up again. It’s typically a USB port protection to disable certain devices if they are known to cause issues during your computing session (stored on the USB chipset).

A powerdown/powerup (not a reboot) would reinit the chipset completely.

[cuteboi]

https://opensprinkler.com/forums/topic/announcing-opensprinkler-unified-firmware-2-1-4/#post-37398

[cuteboi]

You have to use sudo or the root user, OR add your user to use the serial console without question. I posted this in the update page.

[cuteboi]

http://www.microchip.com/forums/m204840.aspx

Here is another one that kind of explains the exact same issues on my end.

[cuteboi]

I have finished working out the switch. The switch had to be hard set to “speed 10” at the port of where I connected the hardware.

I’m not sure why the port didn’t detect that the enc28j60 through auto negotiation, but from what I saw in this forum post about having to force the port to speed 10, tells me I haven’t been the only person using a managed high speed switch (this switch handles 10gb connections at copper level).

http://www.microchip.com/forums/m628780.aspx

An alternative much more likely problem is that the polarity of your TPIN+ and TPIN- wires are swapped somewhere between the ENC28J60 and the remote Cisco 300 switch PHY. Unlike 100BaseTX signaling, 10BaseT signaling is polarized, so you have to route one PHY’s TX+ signal to the remote PHY’s RX+ signal and similarly TX- with RX-. Not all engineers realize this, and given that Gigabit and 100Mbps Ethernet is predominant nowadays, I’ve seen several cases where various switch and router vendors have transposed their TX+ and TX- wires on some or all of their ports (in MDI, MDI-X, or both modes), possibly on purpose to improve trace routing. This non-compliant wiring works for all 100Mbps link partners and also works for 10BaseT devices which support a proprietary polarity detection and correction feature (not part of IEEE standard), but will not for the ENC28J60 and PIC18F97J60 family which don’t implement polarity detection and correction.

[cuteboi]

The screenshot I had was actually of the Laptop <-> Switch. And then the OS <-> Switch.

Then I thought, why not connect it to the laptop <-> OS; I just found an odd thing. When I connect the laptop <-> OS, it gets a link light.

If I connect the Switch <-> OS no link light. BUt all other devices work on the Switch.

It’s a newer Dell N2048P, and I think there may be a negotiation issue between the two devices. The N2048P is designed to be a 48 port POE Switch, but I only use 2 ports for POE, all other ports are in passive mode. There may be something on the switch preventing a connection, or possibly a setting in the ENC28J60 preventing a connection when it senses power coming through (which it shouldn’t shut off, just not accept the power. I’ll double check what’s up with the switch once my friend gets a chance to look into it. But for the meantime, I think I’ll use a dumb switch to link with the OS to get my network going again. Talk about strange….

[cuteboi]

No link on the OS

But link on the laptop

Still no link.

Made sure to put in the enc28J60 with the top left as pin 1. Folded it in

I’ll have to water the most important parts of the lawn until OS3.0 is released sometime in the future. Since I’m getting a water storage container, I would love to track it without getting a BBB

[cuteboi]

REplaced the 25mhz Crystal and the new enc28J60 and still no connection. I have no clue what’s left. Ideas?

[cuteboi]

I thought if there was no HDMI on the rPI, it wont initialize the hdmi port at all. Or is that just the BBB?

Regardless, if you have a monitor connected to it, I’m sure you don’t need the rPI in the same enclosure as the OS. Have you considered using your own enclosure for the rPI and use a ribbon cable to and from the OS to the rPI through the LCD hole? that would free up a lot of access to the rPI and not clutter up the inside of the case. If you consider connecting a backup camera screen to the rpi, you can leave that in the same area as the rpi/os, and have a nice display that can possibly have some nice graphics or just a simple ncurses based app showing the current status of the rPI, like htop?

[cuteboi]

I believe I found the right parts from DigiKey;
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ENC28J60-I%2FSP/ENC28J60-I%2FSP-ND/1680061

But not sure if this is the correct 25mhz crystal. I couldn’t find the schematics for the OS, so I’ve been browsing around digikey’s crystal filtering, and found this one;
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/9B-25.000MAAE-B/887-1499-ND/2690352

Are these the right parts?

[cuteboi]

Took a while, it’s called a DIP configuration. (Just documenting this if it ever comes up and other users read this thread)

[cuteboi]

After troubleshooting, I wasn’t able to get the buttons to output anything during the “connecting…” phase. Once it completed after several minutes, the buttons were working, I tried all the combinations, the ip address was 0.0.0.0:80, and all blank. Seems like I can’t use buttons until the device has completed initializing. I’ll look fr a new ENC28J60, I see it’s quite common as far as the chipset goes, but the form factor isn’t. Would you happen to have the name of the form factor we are using in the DIY kits? I’ll definitely go and a get new ethernet controller along with the crystal while I’m at it.

Regards,
Anthony

[cuteboi]

https://opensprinkler.com/forums/topic/cannot-communicate-with-board-v2-1u/

I just found this thread, and it’s the same exact issue I’m having.

Here is the voltage on my pins, as directed to nsato by Ray in the referenced link:

1:2.6v
2:18.7mv
3:1.58v
4:3.27v
5:3.27v
6:30.1mv
7:3.1v
8:0.1v
9:3.04v
10:3.28v
11:20mv
12:1.17v
13:1.17
14:1.21

15:3.27v
16:3.25v
17:3.25v
18:20.8mv
19:3.27v
20:3.27v
21:19.9mv
22:21.1mv
23:1.34v
24:1.18v
25:3.27v
26:20.1mv
27:19.1mv
28:3.27

I assume my voltage meter is reading the mV, even though the comparison with the referenced URL shows 0v. I assume that’s what I should put there, but I rather give what i see, than what I feel.

[cuteboi]

I was able to flash the latest 2.1.5 firmware on my OS_2.1

https://opensprinkler.com/forums/topic/announcing-opensprinkler-unified-firmware-2-1-4/

my ethernet controller seems to have gone bad. Any suggestions on how to go about troubleshooting/replacing it?

I’m doing pretty well considering I have no real idea on how to go about it. Reading the forums has helped a LOT.

I was unable to flash using the osFWUpdater, I used the avrdude command mentioned in the above URL. That was MUCH faster than the hours I left the osFWUpdater running today.

[cuteboi]

Set the SDcard to read only. No corruption possible. The rPI will not work as intended, logs will not be set, but if you’re using a remote syslog server, you can catch it all there instead of locally. This is how the little WRT routers worked.

[cuteboi]

I made a slotted a piece of plywood to let the open sprinkler slide into it. I think I’ll make the next slide out of metal, as the wood is all bent and humid. The enclosure didn’t help much to protect my OS

[cuteboi]

Seems like I can’t flash anything either, seems the whole board’s chipsets are broked. I tried flashing 2.1.5 firmware, left it for over an hour, and since I had flashed a few arduino devices in the past, it never took that long, so I restarted the device. Still no go, still at the connecting.

I’ve reseated both chipsets, the lcd display and even removed the RTC battery in case it was holding bad settings in memory. Nothing.

Jun 11 22:57:24 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7821.575528] usb 3-4: new low-speed USB device number 31 using xhci_hcd
Jun 11 22:57:24 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7821.575914] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7821.779958] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7821.983624] usb 3-4: device not accepting address 31, error -71
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.095674] usb 3-4: new low-speed USB device number 32 using xhci_hcd
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.096063] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.300096] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:25 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.503767] usb 3-4: device not accepting address 32, error -71
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.615817] usb 3-4: new low-speed USB device number 33 using xhci_hcd
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.616207] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7822.820242] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.023909] usb 3-4: device not accepting address 33, error -71
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.135951] usb 3-4: new low-speed USB device number 34 using xhci_hcd
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.136340] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.340377] usb 3-4: Device not responding to set address.
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.544052] usb 3-4: device not accepting address 34, error -71
Jun 11 22:57:26 ahernandez-HP-EliteBook-8770w kernel: [ 7823.544077] hub 3-0:1.0: unable to enumerate USB device on port 4

Does OS sell the chips themselves? I’m betting that the heat outside fried this, and caused something wrong with the device. Maybe a way to test if the chipsets are working properly? i see those test ports with the RX/TX and other stuff above the LCD display. Any tutorials on such an activity?

[cuteboi]

You should try out the BeagleBone Black version, you can add a LOT more sensors to it, AND you can attach a small multi-line screen to it. You can also connect a full touch screen system to it, and track all that information right onboard. If you have the web design experience, you can also just get a nice fancy UI loaded into a default web app display like dolphin instead of the full window system. This way it’s locked into one single “web page” on the local BBB.

you’ve giving me some good ideas.

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=8548.0

[cuteboi]

The current OpenSprinkler runs with 24v AC, so the lighting outside needs to be compatible. From my understanding, the new 3.x version of OpenSprinkler will possibly run on DC voltage, and that means you can easily power some really low lighting, as long as you’re not running the sprinklers at the same time, the voltage needed may dip too low for one or the other.

But yeah, look for 24v AC lighting if you want to power it, and remember, you’re capped at 1A of power, for your OpenSprinkler and your lighting, and the power up of the lighting may require more amperage too.

[cuteboi]

Linux binary requires some Debug files;

$ ./osFWUpdater_x64
./osFWUpdater_x64: symbol lookup error: ./osFWUpdater_x64: undefined symbol: _ZN6QDebugD1Ev

I already installed the libqt5serialport5, but not sure what’s next, I’m searching Google for the meantime

EDIT: Recompiled, and loaded perfectly

[Author]

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