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Ray,
Although my ‘Last Successful Weather Call’ was not likely to be a part of my ‘California restrictions problem’ I checked it anyway. No problem. Looks like it is updating hourly. For reference, California restriction initiates okay but after several days watering is still 0% and must be returned to 100% manually. If also set in Zimmerman, I am not sure if the problem occurs. We have had so little rain I can not test much.
Bill
Wokke,
Regarding your issue of watering too soon after a rain, try the California Restriction setting. It has some problems (see my posts) but its intent is to inhibit watering for 48 hours after a rain.
This is not an ideal solution but it would help.
Bill
Ray, I can confirm what dun4cheap is saying. I am running version 2.16 and I stuck on 0% after our usual California 0.01″ useless drizzle. I have to manually re-up it to 100% 48hrs+ later.
Bill
**********Ray,
So the controller running 2.16 is at 0% watering. It rained here on Thursday last week. The other 2 controllers are at 100%. I really need to get to the bottom of this.
Tom, my software setup is a little different than yours. I am running California restrictions without Zimmerman. Since I only get a maximum watering time of 10 minutes per station, I want every second of it no matter what. Thus, I am not using Zimmerman but am using California restrictions to inhibit watering after a rain. The inhibit goes into effect properly but after a few days % watering is still on zero. I am pretty sure there is a bug somewhere.
Interesting ocallaghan. I am using the California Restriction. Once we get our drizzle of rain % watering changes to 0 % as it is supposed to.
The problem is 48 hours later, it does not change back. I wonder if we are looking at the same bug, just manifesting its self a little differently.Bill
You seem to have a different problem than I do. Your problem to my layman’s eye appears to be with the Wunderground setup. Have you entered and verified a valid key?
I don’t know if this applies to your situation. This morning I notice that I was not watering. I has not rained in a few and their is a heat advisory. A quick look at the iPhone app revealed that watering % had inexplicably changed to 0 %. I changed it to 100% and got on with my life. Could perhaps, when watering is suppressed as it was Monday, the watering % is ‘sticking’ at zero?
If this is the case. Then my observation might fit with yours.
I am running 2.1.6 without other issues.
I tested with Firefox, Explorer 11 and Edge. E-mail and file save save does not work in Explorer 11 or Edge but does work in Firefox.
Thanks for the speedy reply.Bill
2.1.6 was loaded without incident. Restoring my backup was troubling. The pull down for restore from this device was initially missing. I had to restore from a 2 month old file. After the restore the import from this App option reappeared. In 2.1.6 save to file and save to e-mail no longer work on my PC. I think may may be a Windows 10 issue since I can save to e-mail on my phone.
Bill
Thanks Ray. It works like a charm.
Also, with the logging function, should the water police ever drop by, I have a record of compliance.
Earlier today I got tired of repairing drywall in the bathroom and downloaded Win10 for RASPI2. It is pretty easy to download and set up, but only if you are running Win10 Preview to do the SD flash.
It appear ( I could be wrong) that to develop software for this release you have to have Professional, Pro or Ultimate Visual Studio at a cost of $300 to $2,600. Maybe you can get a trial version. I my case the trial would expire before I gained any measurable proficiently.
So, while Win10 is free, it is at least $300 to develop anything useful for it.
Let me know if I am wrong about any of this. It was pretty hot in that bathroom, 97F here in SoCal.
Sorry, but I can nor recreate the problem. I have to means of rolling back to try the update again. I suppose its possible that I did not use open sprinkler between the two updates.
Regarding Kindle issues, there is no error message. One odd thing abut the Kindle HD is that when the processor loads up the display dims slightly. If I click on Diagnostics, there is no response except for a dimming display indicating high CPU activity.
I doubt that helps much. There probably are few (if any) people running this App on a Kindle HD, especially since it needs to be rooted.
Mercifully the schedule restrictions in my city are not as bad. I am able to comply by defining my watering schedule carefully. However the ‘ don’t water within 2 days of 0.01″ of rain’ rule still requires manual intervention that I would like to avoid.
Interesting. For my needs, simply disabling watering within two days of 0.01″ of rain would be sufficient.
bill
Super. Thanks! Attached is the relevant state-wide regulation. If you feel your head starting to explode, stop reading immediately.
It look like rain is defined as “measurable” That is 0.01 inches (http://weather.about.com/od/c/g/chance_of_rain.htm).
Bill – AB6OR
I had exactly the same experience. As a matter of fact, the TP-Link began to interfere with DHCP and shut down my intranet. I let this happen a couple of times to be sure it was reproducible. The issue seems to be that the TP-Link draws a lot of power, maybe more than spec. I called TP-Link and a woman who sounded about 16 years old walked me through a flow chart that ended in having me cut the transmit power and retest. Voila. Cutting the transmit power solved the problem, unfortunately cutting the transmit power in my situation, defeated the purpose of using the TP-Link. In the end, I ran an Ethernet cable to the opensprinkler and returned the TP-Link to Rayshobby.
Can you cut the transmit power and retest? It would be helpful to confirm my results.
You are correct. The logging radio button had become unchecked. Once check, I was able to delete the existing log. It was desirable to delete the existing log since it had many 1 minute ‘test’ entries. I will confirm logging and logging format over the rest of the week.
The city I live in had instituted some fairly draconian water restrictions. I am watering at exactly the maximum. If challenged by some fine hungry bureaucrat, I would like to be able to prove that I am in compliance.
Correct. I may have a bad one (the guy in Britain as well). The 850 mA supply would not run it. It would not even do a hard reset. The power supply that came with it would give me iffy operation. It would seem to run but would not reset and reboot through the menu. Right now I have it running off a 5.25 (instead of 5) volt one amp supply in AP mode. It seems to be working.
The opensprinkler is running fine hooked up to my router.Except for an allergy attack from running CAT5 in the attic crawlspace, I think this is a cleaner installation anyway.
Would one of these work for you? there are no indicator lights, but it would provide DC fusing.
http://www.powerwerx.com/fuses-circuit-protection/
for blown fuse indication you could use these.
Bill – AB6OR
All is well. It is installed and running well with no drama on the open sprinkler side of the installation.
I ended up running CAT5 through the crawlspace, however. I could not get the TP-Link to work. It ran it in AP mode for a while and it worked great. In client mode it would work for a few minutes. I would then loose connectivity with both the sprinkler controller and the TP-Link. A few minutes after that all wired and wireless devices would loose connectivity. My raspberry pi weather station (http://162.239.136.92/weather) and media server needed to be unplugged to get them listening again. I tested this several times with and without static IP addresses. By mid afternoon I threw up my hands and ran the CAT5. Any ideas what was happening? My theory is that the TP-Link was offering DHCP renewals even though I had its DHCP turned off. A brief web search found others with similar problems but not as dramatic. They tried different releases of the firmware. I also tried the latest firmware release to no effect.
Both the android and iPhone apps work great.
** edit **
I think I found the problem! It a power supply issue. I can not take credit for finding the solution, however, I found a post from a guy in Britain ( I presume, use of the word whilst) who discover that plugging the TP-Link into a USB 3.0 hub solved his problem. His problem was very similar to mine. The TP-Link in certain operational situations apparently draws at or above 1A. I tried my TP-Link on a 0.85A supply and it would not even boot. If I discover more, I will start a new thread. This strayed from my original topic.
Bill – AB6OR
No problem. your instructions are very good. One more question. For testing and initial programming, can I use my 0-26 VDC bench supply (set at 24 volts of course) as long as I put positive on pin 2? I have a 24 VAC power supply on my decrepit Toro sprinkler controller but I don’t want to disconnect the Toro until the final switchover. Also, and I hope that I don’t need it, my bench supply has an adjustable current limit.
Bill – AB6OR
